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Owl Purse

Description: This Owl Purse features a zigzag design in the strap, which is 36 inches long. The feathers around the eyes and the lower edge of the flap are made with Picots.

The flap forms the face of the owl, and the beak is made with a bead that also functions as the clasp.

There is wavy layered fringe along the lower edge, to represent tail feathers.

The total length from just above the eyes to the tips of the fringe is 12 inches. You can make the purse longer by adding more rows of knots in the areas I will indicate in the pattern.

The width is 8 inches, but you can add more cords to create a wider purse.

This Macrame pattern is rated Moderate, which means you need experience with the knots to successfully create this purse.

Supplies Needed:

6mm Macrame Cord (102 yards for 8 x 12 size)

Eyes: Two 25mm beads

Beak Clasp: One oval or tube bead, at least 32mm long

Two 2-inch rings (plastic or wood)

Project Board and pins

Knots Used:

Square Knot (Both Right and Left)

Alternating Square Knots

Double Half Hitch

Larks Head Knot

Barrel Knot

Preparation:

STRAP: Cut 4 cords, each at least 6 yards long (36-inch strap). Cut the cords longer if you plan to lengthen the strap.

Mark these cords with tape to make them easy to identify.

FRONT: Cut 12 cords, each 2.5 yards long.

To make the Owl purse wider than 8 inches, cut additional cords. The number of cords must be a multiple of four (16, 20, etc.)

**Remember that the instructions below will need to be changed in areas where mental numbering is required, since you will have more cords.

To make the purse longer than 12 inches, cut them 7.5 x the desired length.

FLAP + BACK: Cut the same number of cords as the front, 4 yards long.

When making the Owl Purse longer than 12 inches, cut these cords longer.

You need 6.5 x the desired length of both the back + the flap combined, since it's made in one piece. The flap should be 2 inches shorter than the back.

EYE FEATHERS: Cut 2 cords, each 3 yards long.

Prepare all the cords to prevent unraveling.

The Strap

Step 1: Secure the 4 cords for the strap (6-yard) vertically to your board, at the center. Mentally number them 1 - 4.

Move cord 4 to the side, and do not use it for the first knot.

The first knot should rest next to the pins at the center.

Tie a LEFT Square knot, as shown below:

Left SK: Steps 1 - 2

< Move cord 1 left to right, over cord 2 and under cord 3.

Move cord 3 under cord 2 and over cord 1, as you pull it left. >

To start the second half of the Square knot, mentally re-number the cords where they are now.

Left SK: Steps 3 - 4

< Move cord 3 to the left, over cord 2 and under cord 1.

Move cord 1 under cord 2 and over cord 3, as you pull it right. >

When working on other sections of the Owl Purse, you can use the instructions above to help you tie the left SK. The right SK are shown below.

The only change will be in the number of filler cords (two instead of one).

Tie a left SK with cords 2 - 4. The filler is cord 3.

Continue tying the strap for the Owl Purse, alternating between cords 1 - 3 and cords 2 - 4, as shown above.

Stop when the first half of the strap is 18 inches long.

Turn the strap around and go back to the center.

Make sure you do not flip the strap upside down.

You will now use the other half of the cords to create the second half of the strap.

Note that the heads of the knots you just tied are now facing right.

You need to tie right Square Knots for the second half of the strap, so the two halves match:

Right SK: Steps 1 - 2

< Move cord 3 to the left, over cord 2 and under cord 1.

Move cord 1 under cord 2 and over cord 3, as you pull it right. >

Mentally re-number the cords where they are now, then make the second half of the right SK:

Right SK: Steps 3 - 4

< Move cord 1 to the right, over cord 2 and under cord 3.

Move cord 3 under cord 2 and over cord 1, as you pull it left. >

Use cords 2 - 4 to tie the next SK.

Alternate between cords 1 - 3 and 2 - 4 to tie the remainder of the strap for your Owl Purse.

Stop when the entire strap is 36 inches long.

Flap/Back of Purse

You will now be making the flap and back portions of the Owl Purse.

The front edge is made with picot loops to represent feathers, which you tie first.

Later you will create the face, and then the back portion.

Step 2: Use two of the 4-yard cords for the flap and fold them in half.

Mentally number the four segments. The portions numbered 2 and 3 will act as fillers for the Square Knot.

Tie a left Square Knot with segments 1 and 4, around the fillers. This image shows the first half.

Tighten the knot 1-inch below the fold.

Create 2 more picot designs in the same manner (total of 3). Measure each one to make sure the picots are the same size (1-inch).

Create 3 more picot designs, this time with RIGHT SK.

Create additional picots if you decided to widen the Owl Purse, so you use all the cords cut for the flap.

Make sure half of them are right SK.

Arrange the left SK picot designs on your board, so they form a diagonal row from top right to lower left.

Arrange the right picot designs to the right of the first set. The first one should be lined up with the first left SK design (at the top).

Place the others lower down to the right. Keep playing with the position until you like the shape. Then secure all the knots.

Please Note: The numbering of the cords described below will be different if you decided to widen the Owl Purse by adding more cords.

Step 3: Mentally number the cords 1 - 24.

Locate cords 11 - 14, at the top "point" of the flap design. You know it's the right place if one SK is left and the other right.

Tie a left SK with cords 11 and 14, around the other two, which are fillers.

Design Tip: Notice how you are using two cords coming from the SK on the left, along with two from the right (first row).

This is how all Alternating Square Knot patterns are tied for the Owl Purse.

Tie a left SK with cords 7 - 10.

It's important that you pay attention to the direction of the knots, so the flap is the same on both sides.

In this case, all the knots in the area face left.

Tie a left SK with cords 3 - 6.

Note that cords 1 and 2 are not used in this row. This is another important part of Alternating Square Knots.

In every other row, you do not use the first and last two cords.

On the other side of the center point, tie a RIGHT SK with cords 15 - 18.

Tie another with cords 19 - 22.

Step 4: For the 2nd row, alternate the cords by tying left SK with 1 - 4, 5 - 8, and 9 - 12.

Tie right SK with 13 - 16, 17 - 20, and 21 - 24.

Tie several more rows of ASK as follows:

Row 3: Tie Left SK with 3 - 6, 7 - 10, 11 - 14.

Tie Right SK with 15 - 18, 19 - 22.

Row 4: Tie Left SK with 1 - 4, 5 - 8, and 9 - 12.

Tie Right SK with 13 - 16, 17 - 20, and 21 - 24.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 4.

To make the flap longer if you decided to enlarge the Owl Purse, tie additional rows in this area.

I recommend you add one row for every inch you want to increase the length beyond 12 inches. So for a 14-inch purse, add two rows.

Important: Make sure you end on a row that uses all the cords (row 4).

Step 5: To make an open area for the beak to pass through, the next row needs to be a little different:

Tie a left SK with 3 - 6 and 7 - 10.

Tie a right SK with 15 - 18 and 19 - 22.

Do not use cords 11 - 14.

Move cords 13 and 14 towards the left.

Weave cord 12 over - under cords 13 and 14, heading right.

Weave cord 11 under - over cords 13 and 14.

Without disturbing the crossed cords, tie the next row of ASK as follows:

Left SK: Cords 1 - 4, 5 - 8, and 9 - 12

Right SK: Cords 13 - 16, 17 - 20 and 21 - 24.

This will provide you with an open area for the clasp (circled).

Step 6: Tie the next row of ASK as follows:

Left SK: Cords 3 - 6, 7 - 10, and 11 - 14.

Right SK: Cords 15 - 18, and 19 - 22.

Slide a round bead for the eyes onto cords 6 and 7, and another one onto cords 18 and 19.

Tie Left SK with cords 1 - 4 and 9 - 12.

Tie Right SK with cords 13 - 16 and 21 - 24.

Tie the next row of ASK as follows:

Left SK: Cords 3 - 6, 7 - 10, and 11 - 14.

Right SK: Cords 15 - 18, and 19 - 22.

The remaining rows of ASK need to be done so a V shape forms, to make the forehead area of the Owl Purse.

Follow these instructions carefully:

Tie Left SK with cords 1 - 4 and 5 - 8.

Tie Right SK with cords 17 - 20 and 21 - 24.

Do not use cords 9 - 12.

The last two rows are tied as follows:

Left SK with cords 3 - 6. Right SK with 19 - 22.

Left SK with cords 1 - 4. Right SK with 21 - 24.

Step 7: Locate cords 11 and 14. These are the holding cords for the first row of Double Half Hitches.

Secure them so they are arranged against the diagonal edge of the Square Knots, heading left and right. They should rest on top of the other cords as shown.

Attach cords 15 - 24 to holding cord 14 with Double Half Hitches.

Rotate counter-clockwise, and tighten each knot firmly.

Tie the first half Hitch moving cord 15 over - under the holding cord.

As you pull it left, it passes over cord 15.

Tie a second knot in the same manner, to make it a Double Half Hitch.

Attach cords 10 - 1 to holding cord 11, in that order.

The DHH should be tied in a clockwise direction.

Step 8: Repeat step 7, but use cord 12 for the left holding cord, and cord 13 on the right.

Do not attach the previous holding cords when you get to the edges.

Make sure the knots are firmly tightened so the two rows are close to each other.

This is what the forehead area should look like when the flap is finished.

In the following steps, you will make the back of the Owl Purse.

Step 9: To make the upper back portion of the Owl Purse, you will be create a basic woven design. This allows the area to stretch, so the flap can be folded more easily.

Mentally re-number the cords 1 - 24. Cords 7 - 18 are used for the weaving. Move the others aside for now.

Move cords 13 - 18 to the left, and organize them so they're straight. You can secure them if you wish.

Weave cord 12 through 13 - 18, heading right. Begin by passing over cord 13, then alternate over - under the remainder.

Weave cord 11 next, by passing under cord 13 first. This alternates the weaving.

Weave cord 10 as you did cord 12. Cord 9 is woven like cord 11.

Next is cord 8, which follows the same weaving as cord 12. Cord 7 is woven like cord 11.

After the weaving is completed, temporarily secure the cords.

Step 10: You will again tie both left and right SK for the remainder of the Owl Purse.

Tie one row now:

Left SK: Cords 1 - 4, 5 - 8, 9 - 12

Right SK: Cords 13 - 16, 17 - 20 and 21 - 24.

Move this portion of the purse aside while you start the front.

Front of Purse

The front of the Owl Purse begins by mounting the 2.5 yard cords to a holding cord. You can use a different knotting technique than what is shown below.

Cut one holding cord, 20 inches long. Secure it horizontally to your board, and mark the center with a pin.

Step 11: Fold a 2.5-yard cord in half and place it on top of the holding cord, with the fold heading downward. It should rest to the right of the center.

Move the ends under the holding cord and over the curved portion as you pull them towards you.

Tie a Half Hitch with each end of the cord:

Pass the end over - under the holding cord.

As you pull it downward, pass it over the working cord.

Step 12: Repeat step 11 with the remaining cords for the front of the Owl Purse.

Half of them should rest to the left of the center, and the remainder on the right.

Step 13: Tie one row of Alternating Square knots, using 4 cords per knot.

The right/left pattern should be the same as the last row you tied in the back portion of the Owl Purse:

Left SK: Cords 1 - 4, 5 - 8, 9 - 12

Right SK: Cords 13 - 16, 17 - 20 and 21 - 24.

After the row is completed, move the ends of the holding cord out of the way, and don't include the ends in the next step.

Step 14: Place the back/flap design on the left, and one end of the strap next to it.

Place the front of the Owl Purse on the right.

The ASK made with cords 21 - 23 in the back (step 10) should line up with the last knot in the strap.

They should line up with the SK tied with cords 1 - 4 in the front.

Tie a right SK with cords 23 - 24 from the back, combined with cords 1 - 2 from the strap.

Tie a left SK with cords 3 - 4 from the strap, along with cords 1 - 2 from the front.

These knots are considered part of the 2nd row, since one row has already been tied in both the back and front.

For the other side, you have to connect the three parts in two steps:

Make sure the strap is not twisted. Place the right end of the front design to the left of the strap.

Tie a right SK with cords 23 - 24 from the front, combined with cords 1 - 2 from the strap.

Fold the Owl Purse so that the back/flap design is next to the strap. You may need to position the front under the area where you are working.

Tie a left SK with cords 3 - 4 from the strap, combined with cords 1 - 2 from the back.

Step 15: Now that all three parts are connected, complete the second row of ASK using 4 cords per knot.

Start in the area you just completed, and tie the next knot with cords 3 - 6 from the back/flap design.

Go all the way around the Owl Purse, using the cords from the back, strap and front areas.

Design Tip: Change the direction of the knots in the center area of both the back and front, so half are right SK and the other half are left SK.

Before you move on, locate the ends of the holding cord in the front portion of the purse. Pull on them firmly, so that the top edge of the mounting knots are as straight as possible.

Weave them through the back of the knots in the area where the straps are attached. Apply glue as needed.

Step 16: Tie 10 more rows of ASK, moving all the way around the purse. It's best to start in the same area each time, such as just below the strap.

Important: This area of the Owl Purse needs to be made longer if you changed the length of the flap.

Fold the flap over the front to see how many extra rows are needed. You still have 6 more rows to tie, so keep that in mind.

When you are finished, divide the cords into two groups (front and back).

Locate the strap cords, which are marked with tape.

Make sure two cords from each end of the strap are included in both the back and front groups (total of 4 strap cords).

Step 17: The last 6 rows in the front and back portions of the Owl Purse form a V design. Mentally number the cords in the back portion 1 - 28.

Tie the ASK as described below. Change the direction of the knots so they match those above them.

Row 1: Use cords 3 - 6, 7 - 10, 11 - 14, 15 - 18, 19 - 22, and 23 - 26.

Row 2: Use cords 5 - 8, 9 - 12, 13 - 16, 17 - 20, and 21 - 24.

Row 3: Use cords 7 - 10, 11 - 14, 15 - 18, and 19 - 22.

Row 4: Use cords 9 - 12, 13 - 16, and 17 - 20.

Row 5: Use cords 11 - 14 and 15 - 18.

Row 6: The final ASK is tied with 13 - 16.

Step 18: Repeat step 17 to form the lower point in the front of the Owl Purse, using the remaining cords.

Closing the Bottom

To close the bottom of the Owl Purse, fold the design so that the back is resting on top of the front. Move the flap out of the way.

Make sure the knots along the edges of the V designs you just made are matched up.

Step 19: Choose one cord coming from the SK at the point of the V shape, for each half of the purse (total of 2).

Use the cord to tie a Barrel Knot. When you tighten it, pull one end downward and the other upward, so the knot is as flat as possible.

Step 20: Trim the cords to 4 inches, so you know that they have been used.

Then carefully select two more cords. Tie them together as in step 19.

Repeat steps 19 - 20 with the remaining cords. Make sure you use all the cords and don't miss any.

Finishing Touches

Step 21: To create the clasp for the Owl Purse, locate the crossed cords in the flap, just below the eyes (from step 5).

Slide the bead you plan to use for the beak through the opening to make sure it fits.

Fold the flap over the front in the position it will be when in use.

Locate a space in the front that lines up with this area in the flap.

Slide a 10-inch piece of scrap cord through the hole in the bead.

Pass the cord through the space in the front portion of the Owl Purse, so the ends are on the inside.

Leave a little slack and make sure the bead is vertical.

Reach inside the purse and tie the ends together with a very tight Barrel Knot.

Do this the same way you closed the bottom, to make the knot as flat as possible.

Apply glue and trim the ends close to the knot.

Step 22: To start the eye feathers for the Owl Purse, attach a 3-yard cord to a ring with a Larks Head knot.

Using one end, create a picot loop next to the ring. The best way is to secure the cord 1-inch from the edge of the ring, and then fold the cord.

Tie the first half of a Larks head knot by passing the end over - under the ring. It should pass over the cord as you tighten.

Tie the second half of the knot by passing the end under-over the ring.

As you tighten, it should pass under the cord.

Cover half the ring with the same end you are using. Switch to the other end to cover the second half.

Push the knots close together, so when you are finished, the ring cannot be seen.

Step 23: Repeat step 22 to cover the other ring.

Wrap a piece of scrap cord around one ring at the top, while pushing the picots aside. This cord should line up with the ends at the bottom.

Place one ring over the left eye. Locate 4 spaces in the flap where the ends and scrap cord can pass through (above and below the bead).

Each end needs to pass through a different space. Use pliers or tweezers to pull the ends through the flap.

Arrange the Owl Purse so you are working in the back of the flap. Tie off the two cords above the eye with Barrel Knots. Apply glue as you tighten.

Repeat with the other two cords.

Cut off the excess material when the glue is dry.

Repeat step 23 to attach the second ring over the left eye.

Step 24: Now it's time for the wavy fringe at the bottom of the Owl Purse.

Select one cord and pull out 2 - 3 fibers in the area close to the lower edge of the purse.

This will loosen the other fibers so you can unravel the cord completely. Repeat with all the remaining cords.

Place the Owl Purse face up to give it a "haircut".

Trim to neaten the fringe, but do not brush, since that will make it even more bulky.

Thin it out by cutting some of the cords shorter, so there are two layers.

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